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Bhutan - visited in April 2006

Sitting in humid grass and facing the "male" river of the Wangdu valley, I contemplate some blue stains in the sky. Mick Jagger is shouting in my ears some nostalgia. Houses of all colours decorate the towering hills. At the bottom-end of the valley, I can see rice fields in staircases (terrace) protected by the wild marijuana fields, recently watered by the heavy rains. It is funny to see marijuana growing over here, since Bhutan is probably the only country in the world where smoking tobacco is already considered as an offence.

I was really in need of such a small moment of peaceful rest after crowded India and political unrests in Nepal. Sunset should be in one hour or so. I hope that the sun will offer me a pretty colourful exhibition since I have barely seen him these last days. I left the capital Thimphu under the morning rain for a school in the East of the country. To get to this beautiful blooming valley, we’ve had to drive through a pass of more than 11,000 feet high. My eyes prayed all the gods to receive the dramatic view praised by all guides and traveller’s guide books. Unfortunately, it was a snow storm that welcomed us up there and had us immobilized for some hours. We were stuck there, in the impossibility to go forward, let alone backward. I can only be patient, and dream of Stephanie left in the warmth of Kathmandu. My feet are almost naked, wearing only poor summer flip-flops… and I only have 4 t-shirts to cover my chest and knees. Having left Kathmandu with 90F, I didn't think to take warmer clothes. Hence, I close my eyes hoping that Orfée willl warm me up. However, within 10 minutes my shaking teeth wake me up. Fortunately enough, Buddha had some mercy and stopped the snow for a couple of minutes. The driver took advantage of it, and rushed towards the valley 7000 feet below, like an ice-skating ballerina. The road was not larger than a half dozen of small pigs. Our hero driver is sweating like a duck, but we eventually arrive at destination safely.
However, it will not be possible to see the children today, because schools close early here in the region. It will be for the next day, if conditions are more favorable. Fortunately, I visited another school yesterday. It was full of smiles and some marvellous drawings and poetries were created. It was a delightful day for them … and me.
The kingdom of Bhutan is ruled under a totally different way from most countries that I have visited. Religion and environment have a central function in everyone’s life. Tobacco isn’t legal in the country, neither are plastic bags…
To illustrate such concerns, I have been requested of a special message to the world from a 9 years old yesterday, at the school: "please tell them to take care of the forest like we do". Indeed, this must be the only country that has been able to preserve its forests for centuries. If 60% of the country was green forest some 500 years ago, today they can still count on the same proportion of green areas.
This country has never been colonized and has only undergone 4 short Tibetan invasions between the 12th and 19th century.
A Buddhist monk whispered me proudly that his country´s development was maintained on purpose late, comparing to other countries, and they hear to remain like that. It enables them to learn from other countries’ mistakes and wisely and accordingly adjust to the best of the development of a couple of others picked up with care. They will never blemish their rich religious and cultural heritage …. Lesson to meditate….

Anthony

Bhutan April, 18th 2006

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